Traces of France's colonial past in India still visible today
French President Emmanuel Macron's trip to New Delhi marks a strengthening of the centuries-old ties between France and India. While India's past is largely shadowed by British colonial history, France occupied a much smaller part of the country for many years – and traces of its presence can still be seen today.
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Today known as Puducherry, the city of Pondicherry on India's south-east coast was taken by France in 1674, when the French East India Company set up a trading centre to exploit India's rich spices and other goods.
The area joined the towns of Chandernagor, Mahé, Yanam Karaikal and Masulipatam in the colony of French India.
Today's Government of Puducherry markets the city online as the "quintessence of French culture", "India's Little France" and "the French Riviera of the East".
The old French quarter – "La Ville Blanche" or "White Town" – has become a favourite with tourists for its colonial architecture.
Unlike elsewhere in India, where streets have been renamed and statues torn down to strip away Britain's legacy, echoes of France remain.
The town's mansions, wide boulevards and place names such as "Rue de la Marine" all attest to its enduring French flavour.
Some residents still chat in French, policemen wear the peaked képi hats of the French military and street signs mimic the famous blue-and-white enamel lettering of Paris.
India's French citizens
The colony of French India was administered under a single French governor based in Pondicherry. French rule over one or more of these enclaves was more than once interrupted by the Brits.
In late 1954 – seven years after India's independence from Britain – France withdrew its forces and transferred the territories to the Republic of India, though it would take French lawmakers until 1962 to ratify a treaty making it official.
Today, in spite of the geographical distance between them, the former French districts form the "Union Territory of Pondicherry" – with the exception of Chandannagar, which merged with the state of West Bengal.
The Puducherry areas have a population of some 1.25 million, including about 5,000 people whose ancestors were in the service of the French government at the time of independence and chose to remain French instead of taking Indian nationality.
That choice gives their descendants the right to a French passport to this day.
Apart from a consulate, a number of French cultural and educational institutions including the Institut Français, the Alliance Française and an overseas French school can be found in the town – signs of France's soft power in its former colony.
Growing ties
With Macron's visit New Delhi and Paris celebrate growing ties, as France seeks to boost lucrative deals with India, the world's fifth-biggest economy and most populous nation.
Prime Minister Narendra Modi was guest of honour at France's annual Bastille Day celebrations last July, and Macron was likewise feted this week in India.
The visit is the fifth meeting between Macron and Modi, and observers anticipate the French leader’s trip will also help to clinch a long-awaited free-trade agreement.
France has emerged as the 11th largest foreign investor in India, with an inflow of €9.5 billion between 2000 and 2023.
Macron's visit to India on 25 and 26 January takes place just one day before France and China – with whom New Delhi maintains less than friendly relations – mark 60 years of the establishment of diplomatic ties in 1964.
(with newswires)
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